“My first experience with a Perpetual calendar watch really frustrates me”, said by Greubel Forsey, ”have contacted with various ealier perpetual calendar watches, adjusting them and trivial changing are really an annoying exhausted process. ”
Many creators of those complicate chronographs, just like Forsey, have the same annoying experience and frustrating. But this kind of watch, once properly being adjusted, will precisely record time and work regardless of months, or leap year or non-leap year. This amazing feat made perpetual calendar to develop its school in the watch history, but only a minority of watch-makers, including Forsey, realized the necessity of modernizing this 18th century’s design.
Their creative solutions made those chronometers have a simple but solid structures and that surely the biggest advancement ever made in this industry. Like other producers, Forsey quickly admitted that he was not the only one that broke the traditional design of perpetual calendar and Ulysse Nardin, who worked with Forsey in 1990th, should take the credit for that.
Innovation road for classic machine– The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire is a brand-new perpetual calendar, although Cartier directly connects this design with the movement. The way Date are displayed is novel: it revolves around the tourbillon, just like an open-air theater, and displays date, month and week in different layer.
Forsey embedded weeks into the machine, so there are over 570 components on the movement, making it the most complicated movement in the world and, of course , a pretty high price. Although it is complex, but it displays all the information, such as date, month and weeks in a quite simple way.
Challenging Perpetual Calendar simultaneous Jumping
Although those perpetual calendar with innovative structures are simpler than those with traditional structures, it is tiresome process to find the change on dates. Traditional perpetual calendar will take an hour or longer, to finish simultaneous jumping. While jumping, movement is prone to be broken as it attempts to change time. In some new watches, movements can be well protected and adjusts time in a fast way, but neither of them can do the simultaneous jumping.
Almost ten years ago, Roger Dubuis, a Siwss watch-maker, made attempts to achieve the simultaneous jumping through the innovative spring driven leverage system but ended up with fails because it greatly reduce the reliability of the watch. So far, only some types from IWC can do this simultaneous jumping on Date and Month.
Francois-Paul Journe, the founder of F.P.Journe, hoped to overcome the problems coming with the changes of date, through the Quantieme Perpetual, the world’s first one that can achieve Date, Month and Week jumping. It is estimated that the Quantieme Perpetual will has its debut in 2015. ”the biggest problem, ” Journe explained, “is that you accumulate all the energy to do the change but all the energy is released at once, so what you need to do is to devise a system to stop the energy release.”
Journe and his colleagues gives enough play to their potentials and imaginations, thus making a new peak in the watch industry. ”Perpetual calendar had come to existed since 18th century, but this is the first time in the human history that we try to incorporate all the excellent features on my new watch, and it is interesting to improve and change those existed things”, said Journe. So let’s expects 2015 F.P.Journe.